Cobaya dinners are that rare combination of whimsy and creativity in which the chefs are given free pass to unleash their genius on Miami's curious "guinea pigs." I was fortunate enough to get into Experiment #23 at Sustain, and after a few months of being waitlisted, I was lucky to once again find myself receiving the coveted "you're in" email.
Just a reminder of the process, Cobaya is an underground dining group that holds (approximately) monthly dinners for a small group in an undisclosed location. You are notified via their mailing list of upcoming opportunities, and then if you choose to bite you sign up for a spot lottery. If you're in, you pay the fee, and the day before the event you're given an address and basic instructions about where to park and where to meet. You then eat whatever the chef wants to prepare, no substitutions, no complaints. It is not for picky eaters. Should you decide to proceed though you're in for a real treat. The Cobaya experience, and yes I say "experience" rather than "meal" is carefully constructed from start to finish. You can also choose to add wine pairings onto the meal for an additional fee, however, it is also an option to BYOB. The obvious advantage to the wine pairings is that a sommelier who already knows the menu planned, has carefully selected the wines that will optimally pair with the food.
For Experiment #27, we arrived at the opulent St. Regis Resort to gather in the lobby. Greeted by courteous staff the room was abuzz with excitement as we checked in and some grabbed drinks at the bar. When it was time for the meal, we were lead to the elevators and ushered into one of the resort's meeting rooms. We came to appreciate the impeccable service throughout the evening, and straight away the servers welcomed us with enthusiasm, and gently laid a napkin in our laps. The tables were set to impress, with lovely centerpieces, and more forks and spoons than you might ever imagine you'd need (and yes we did use each one and many many more). The chefs came out to introduce themselves, and we were informed that as a special surprise, we would be able to watch the staff work throughout the night, via a live feed to the kitchen!
Each course was lovingly placed in front of us with perfect precision among the waiters. First up was an amuse bouche, which Executive Chef de Cuisine Richard Gras playfully described as a "red beet explosion." A simple presentation meant to be downed in a single slurp, the liquid beet ravioli was placed precariously on top of a lemon, thyme pound cake, and it did burst with assertive flavor upon consumption. Considering the size of the bite, it really packed a flavor punch!
We were also fortuante to be dining in the midst of the Miami Malt Bomb, one of Miami's hardcore beer enthusiasts. Throughout the night he was kind enough to share several bottles from his private stash, a trickier feat than one would think since there is no pre-determined menu (meaning that he was forced to choose bottles without knowing how they would pair). First up was a Triverius Brouwerij de Graal, an splendid wit beer with floral notes that paired pretty well with our earlier courses.
Round two of the amuse bouches included nitrogen frozen foie gras pearls with concord grape sponge, vanilla gel, and chives to finish. An interesting combination, it was reminiscent of a peanut butter and jelly sandwich, only just a touch saltier. Another score for molecular gastronomy!
The third course was a play on melon and proscuitto, a "compressed melon salad." Some kind of melon combination was combined with Iberico ham gelée, whipped fava beans, marcona almonds, and micro mache. The saltiness and crunch from the almonds contrasted with the soft foam and smooth gelée, which had a subtle smokiness to it. Furthermore, all of the elements complimented the refreshing watermelon quite well.
Next came one of my favorite courses, a deconstructed guacamole. It was described as an avocado soup, with salsa foam, popping corn, and micro cilanto. What we received was an incredibly complex and bold bowl of chilled soup unlike any standard gazpacho. The popping corn was actually like pop rocks that crackled and burst when on the tongue, and they were interspersed with bits of actual popcorn. There was also a tanginess from the salsa which added some interesting zing to the smooth, silken avocado liquid, and the fresh cilantro added an undeniable surge of Mexican flavor and freshness.
Course #5 brought a more subdued but no less impressive Hawaiian tuna carpaccio, with yuzu, ginger, mango, Guajillo chili oil, and sea vegetables. The briny-ness from the sea vegetables was mollified by the sweetness from the mango and the sliver of delicate, fresh tuna, culminating in a resoundingly well-balanced dish.
This course also mandated a changing of the beer, so we moved on to Zomerhop, a Belgian IPA brewed in the Netherlands. Unlike some overly hoppy American IPAs, there is far less of that bitter longering aftertaste, and what bitterness there was actually worked well with the veggies.
The 6th course bore yet another masterpiece, a Maine lobster flan with pickled cucamelons, sea urchin roe, olive oil marmalade, and preserved lemon. The chef comically announced that cucalmelons is just a fancy name for mini cucumbers, and indeed they arrive just as described. The combination of the preserved lemon packed some wallop along with the sea urchin roe. There was also a huge piece of fresh lobster in the middle of the flan, so if you were a touch unsure what you were eating, it was undeniable. With a huge leaf of fresh taragon, the entire dish was briny and funky in a really exceptional way (like a deliciously pungent bleu cheese).
Afterwards, was a smoked homemade linguini pasta with Farmer Jones carrots, chanterelles, toasted pistachio, and chervil. They wouldn't revel exactly how the pasta was smoked, but it was completely evident on the palate. There was a strong umami flavor to the bowl, and the chanterelles proved meatier than your average mushroom.
Upon completion of the beguilingly smoky pasta, came one of the most ingeneous and flavorful takes on a fried egg that I've ever experienced. Sauteed baby squash, cabernet gastrique, and a crispy poached egg injected with basil, and topped with Florida sturgeon caviar greeted us next. We were told to just "crack it open" and indeed this was the best course of action. The crispness of teh squash, the crunchiness of the fried egg, combined with the subtle sweetness of the gastrique, and the basil being evident but not overpowering, the entire combination was absolutely magical.
If pasta is considered primi piatti to the Italians, then I can only conclude the 9th course was our secondi piatti, or the main dish, even though we had already consumed a miniature feast by this point. Despite the advancing plates, everything seemed surprsingly light, which worked to our advantage with the numerous courses ahead. Back to the entrée, we started with a slow cooked swordfish, heirloom beans, and a indeterminate olive pasta (Is it olives, is it pasta? The Chef wouldn't reveal their secret), Hammock Hollow tomatoes, and a cherry olive broth. Swordfish was perfectly tender and worked well with the sweet cherry sauce and saltier olive pasta.
At some point in this process we also switched to Cigar City's Cucumber Saison, a refreshing and light beer ideal for fish. We then made our way to the dark side with a Dogfish Head Immort Ale from 2008, better suited for meat dishes.
For the last of the savory elements, Chef Gras brought his sous chef out to explain the final dish.
We were told it was a nose to tail kind of prepartion of pig, meaning that everything was used! Although "buche" Bartolo style doesn't literally exist, the dish included chicarrones, carnitas belly, and braised Heritage pork cheek. Additionally, the meat was served with celery root puree, and pineapple glazed pearl onions. The pork was incredibly succulent, and the crisp was not at all oily, both were delectable and enhanced the softer celery puree. Furthermore, the Immort Ale has a lot of maple syrup in the nose, but tastes of marzipan and vanilla (from the oak it was aged in), along with the obvious smoke factor. Accordingly, the smokiness of the beer paired quite well with this plate.
Meanwhile, the kitchen starting whetting our appetite for the next couple rounds...
Ready to bring on the dessert, Executive Pastry Chef Antonio Bachour began the dance with a palate cleansing version of berries and creme. A basil creme strawberry gelée was served with crème fraîche mousse. It was like eating a thick raspberry jelly flan, with red currant, raspberries, blackberries, and I suspect, dragonfruit.
We enjoyed this dessert alongside Odin's Tipple, a dark Norse ale by HaandBryggeriet, which tastes like raisins, chocolate, and a hint of juniper berries.
For the next course (course #12 if you're keeping track) was liquid nitrogen coconut with passionfruit custard and mango "caviar." There was also some guava in the dish as well, along with more dragonfruit. A tropical paradise in frozen dessert form.
We almost couldn't believe it but yes, more was coming...Mmm....
Course #13 was definitely not as unlucky as the number is rumored to be, an artful lemon raspberry spiral with lemon and raspberry mouse, pistachio sponge cake, and raspberry sorbet. The chef also utilized some freeze dried raspberries which added an interesting chewy factor, and some colorful edible flowers to tie the dish together.
Next up was a sinfully decadent and refined version of chocolate covered bananas. Nutella ganache, banana sorbet, toasted hazelnuts, moist microwave milk-chocolate spongecake, caramelized white chocolate powder, and bitter orange, it was a pastry chef's fantasy-land! Playful and sophisticated, it was exceptional.
As we sadly realized our meal was coming to a close, we were warmly thanked by the chefs.
Finally out came the last offerings of the evening, a couple of fun snacks meant to share. Chocolate lollipops filled with some kind of luscious piña colada creme, bacon macarons, mini key lime tarts, and guava marshmallows atop white chocolate krispies, it was a magnificent sendoff.
Like the cast of a Broadway show coming out to take a bow, the entire staff lined up to say a few words and to thank us for our participation.
It was truly an exceptional evening, in which I was humbled by the chefs' talents, I was overwhelmed with the innovative combinations, and I left feeling utterly satisfied and blissful. I am undoubtedly going to be returning to J&G Grill very soon, and I enthusiastically would suggest the same to others. Also, if you're interested in Cobaya dinners, you can gather more information on their website at:
