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Tuesday, May 22, 2012

Gabose Korean and Japanese Restaurant: Seriously Superb Seoul Food

     Growing up in Broward, I cannot believe how long it took me to discover this gem!  From the street it doesn't look like anything special, just another older building along University.
Once you enter the restaurant, it is immediately apparent that you are in for an authentic meal.  Apart from the fact that the composition of diners is 90% Korean, which is always a great sign, the menu is written in both Korean and English, and they even offer pamphlets and newspapers in Korean by the front door (or at least I assume it's Korean since I really can't read it).  The dining room is cozy, with three different seating options.  There are more private rooms, and hibachi style grills in the back if you want to cook your own food, along with some regular tables and booths in the center of the space.
     The menu can be a bit daunting with so many delectable sounding options, but I'd recommend grabbing an appetizer (panchan) to start.  The Heamul Pajun is a pancake composed of egg, flour, shrimp, bay scallops, squid, mussels, and scallion.  In my opinion, it is kind of like a Spanish tortilla filled with leeks and seafood.  Served like a pizza, you can grab a triangle and dip in the garlic soy sauce, although it can be a bit tricky with the metal chopsticks they provide.  I have never had a problem with wooden chopsticks, but for some inexplicable reason, the metal really highlights my inexperience as I fumble to get the eggy concoction into my mouth.  Thankfully, it does tend to fall apart a bit on its own, a fortuitous side effect of being packed to capacity with so much delectable seafood.

     Another alternative is the Boo Choo Jun, a Korean leek pancake.  Again, the "pancake" is actually closer to a frittata, and this one is green-tinged from all the leeks.  An absolute umami explosion, this savory starter is perfect for sharing.
      My favorite of the Korean entrees is the bulgogi.  The term "bulgogi" literally means "fire meat," and the thinly sliced rib-eye meat comes stove cooked on a skillet, and it is marinated in a delicious garlic soy that is slightly sweet.  Then, the dish is sprinkled with sesame seeds and diced spring onions.  As a result of all the sauce, the beef is incredibly juicy and tender, and I adore spooning the  addictive liquid over my serving of slightly sticky white rice.
 The chicken gui is described as charcoal cooked chicken breast "served with our soy/garlic/ginger BBQ sauce."  The chicken we received was redolent of mesquite flavor, but it was kind of bland without the robust red sauce.  Even with their description, the "sauce" turned out to be quite different from what I had expected, almost paste-like in texture.  Combining it with the chicken reminded me of what I can only explain as American chicken wings in buffalo sauce with bleu cheese.  The dish was served with some large leaves of crisp lettuce, so you could make a "lettuce wrap" with the meat if you felt so inclined.
     Along with any of the  BBQ charcoal or BBQ stovetop entrees, you get a full traditional spread, with everything from bean sprouts to kimchi (pickled cabbage).  On one of my visits we even got a bowl of something that reminded me of a creamy potato salad, complete with bits of Red Delicious apples.  While some bowls, like the demure cucumber slices in a tangy broth or the cold mushrooms, are merely refreshing, others (usually the ones bearing the tell-tale fiery red sauce) have some serious kick.  The fish slices are a bit salty and rubbery with a subtle hint of sweetness, and come with shredded carrots.  I devour them with great gusto, finding them a nice counterpoint to the other flavors and textures.  Also, if you run out of any of the sides, they will gladly bring you more upon request.

     Another fantastic option is the bibimbab.  The Haemool Dolsot Bibimbab comes with steamed rice, seafood, and mixed vegetables in a heated stone pot.  I tend to find that of the seafood I encounter most frequently in the bowl (if there are other types), there is a overwhelming majority of squid and octopus.  They suggest mixing the dish together when it arrives, and if you aren't heat intolerant, you can toss in their hot sauce as well.  It kind of reminded me of a fried rice sans soy, with crunchy bits of charred rice stuck to the bottom, and a whole lot of savory flavor.
I've been unlucky when it comes to their desserts, as they always seem to be out of what I want.  In theory though they offer mochi and several flavors of ice cream, including red bean and even popcorn.
     Truly a rare commodity in South Florida, Gabose is well worth venturing to find.  They do offer Japanese options as well, like sushi and katsu, but since this is one of the few places you can actually get quality Korean, I'd suggest taking advantage of the opportunity  Also, if you get two or more entrees from the BBQ Charcoal or BBQ stovetop sections on the menu, you can take charge of your own destiny (err, rather dinner), and they will allow you the option of cooking the meal yourself at a stove on your table.  Personally I'd rather they do it for me so I don't risk messing it up, but it can be a fun alternative.
     Don't worry if you're new to Korean, the staff is absolutely wonderful, very friendly and willing to explain the dishes or offer up suggestions.  If you'd like to check out Gabose for yourself, head over to:
     4991 North University Drive  Lauderhill, FL 33351
     (954) 572-4800
     Gabose Korean & Japanese Restaurant on Urbanspoon

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