Edge, Steak and Bar Brings New Life to Steakhouses

     "Oh geez, another steakhouse?"  In all honesty when I first heard about Edge I was slightly less than enthused.  I mean yes, I do love a hearty slab of succulent meat.  However, I feel more often than not, the typical Miami steakhouse is little more than an opportunity to spend an exorbitant amount for a fairly basic cut of beef in a pretentious setting.  The service is beyond exceptional and the food is often solid in its own right, but the creativity is just not there, and certainly nothing particularly interesting I'd bother seeking out.  Then I went to Edge.
     I came in expecting adequate.  Suffice it to say though, Edge blows adequate out of the water!  Executive Chef Aaron Brooks really manages to imbue a sense of TLC and sheer genius in every dish he prepares, and the prices are all very reasonable.  So it is in the Four Seasons, and undoubtedly it is every bit the luxurious and refined restaurant you would expect.  Antithetically, unlike the often masculine and sultry steakhouses a la Chophouse and Texas de Brazil, Edge is bright, airy, and dare I say, kind of romantic.  They've recently opened up an outside terrace area as well, which is an idyllic spot to come relax on a breezy South Florida evening.  Also, if you haven't been for their happy hour yet you are seriously missing out, as they have some of the best offerings in town.  All the cocktails are two for one, plus you can get $1 oysters and anticucho (skewers of meat in a zesty sauce).

While I have yet to find a disappointing drink, my absolute favorite is the Ginger Brickell (Altanico Silver, Domaine Canton Ginger, Lime, Coconut Foam).  It's light, it's refreshing, and it's unique, the penultimate marriage of ingredients.  Although I must confess, the Cat Walk (St. Germain, Aperol, Passion Fruit, Vanilla Rooibos Tea, Sparkling Wine) is also a close second.  Edge has also got some well made classics, like a killer Pisco Sour and Moscow Mule.

   When you're looking for a nosh, the tuna tartare is unbelievable.  Paired with refreshing cubes of watermelon, pickled shallots, Italian parsley, and salty plantain chips for scooping, it is crisp, smooth, and utterly addictive. The tuna is so fresh that it melts in your mouth like butter.  Unlike other places that feel the need to mask the tuna with sauces in the name of innovation, Edge really lets the simple tuna shine through and take center stage.  The perfect, not too heavy option, although you can also choose the tatare sampler if you've looking for more seafood variety.

Not to reveal my tuna-a-holic tendencies or anything, but the tuna burger is equally poignant.  I never knew how spectacular a chipotle remoulade could be, and the tender burger also comes with sweet pineapple, Napa cabbage slaw, and a sesame bun.  Yum! 
     Finally, when you're craving  bit of sweetness, the cheesecake lollipops are a steal at only $2 a pop.  They've got three flavors to choose from and while I wish I could remember specifically which they used (I think it was milk chocolate and caramel and white chocolate and nutella), either way they are delightful.  Plus the bite-sized serving makes you feel just a little less guilty about the calorie splurge.  Hooray for portion control!

     They also offer regular dinner series, with thoughtfully planned out menus and pairings.  Last week I was lucky enough to attend the Cigar City and High West BBQ meal.  From the moment we arrived you could see the small attention to detail.  Each menu was hand burned, there was a rustic gingham runner, and scattered across the table we small brown paper bags of peanuts. 

Immediately, they brought us each a cocktail made with High West, Maduro Brown Beer, and Cointreau.  It sounds like an odd combination, but I swear it was really good.  Then came the meal:
    I don't even like salmon, and yet I could not help but to dig into the artful masterpiece.  Unparalleled flavor in the smoky salmon, with an interesting crunch from the cornflakes, a bit of saltiness from the caviar, and some kind of luscious creamy foam on top that contrasted well the the piquant green onion puree.  The High West Silver Rye it was paired with smelled of butterscotch and honey, but was so strong I couldn't get those same notes in the taste.  The addition of an ice cube somehow muted the strength a bit to make it more drinkable.  Also, the Cigar City Saizon provided for the first course was light and a bit lemony, a very easy drinking beer.

Since the theme of the night was upscale twists on Southern classics, next up, we were served a BBQ La Belle Farms duck with foie gras griddle cake, guava BBQ sauce and a brussel sprouts slaw.   Oh wow, this plate really hit a home run!  The sprout slaw was crisp and refreshing rather than creamy, which provided a fresh balance to the heavier aspects of the dish.  The decadent foie gras griddle cake was fluffy and decadent, another huge success, that paired well with thick cut slices of smoky, tender duck meat.  This course came with a Cigar City Red Ale, and High West Rendezvous, a much easier drinking choice.

Next up a lamb sausage with grilled black kale, greek yogurt, and Meyer lemon marmalade.  Living out the carnivores dream, they combined on the bone meat and a smoky grilled sausage as well.  When "meat and potatoes" meets Mediterranean, you really can't go wrong.  Served with a Cigar City Jai Lai and a High West Son of Bourye, it was a hearty and delectable course, as exquisite in presentation as it was in execution.

The pièce de résistance though was "the babino," which was served family style.  Huge cuts of prime Creekstone Farms thick cut porterhouse came bursting with juice and flavor, and were served with seriously high end fixings.  Although all were delicious, my personal favorite was the oxtail baked beans, which came topped with strips of bacon.  Alongside this magnificent side was an addictive sweet corn spoon bread, mountains of smoked mashed potato, tart chow chow, and acidic bread and butter pickles.  The food came served alongside a High West Double Rye and some Cigar City Maduro.  The Maduro smells kind of like molasses and oats, and tastes like a bready caramel, so it worked to balance the smokiness of the meat well.

Then came dessert, warm brown butter chocolate chip cookies, cubes of strong Manhattan jello shots, and a thick doughnut milkshake to wash it all down.  You could really taste the brown butter in the cookies, and the doughnut shake was a cop's dream.  It was was a lot of fun to dip the cookies into the rich drink, an homage to a favorite childhood snack.  A dark Cigar City Black lager and and High West 21 Year Rocky Mountain accompanied the onslaught of homey desserts, proving yet another well planned pairing.

The whole experience was completely unforgettable with sensational food, exceptional drinks, and fantastic company.  During each course they also poured generous amounts of each alcohol (either High West or Cigar City beers), changing out the glasses between courses so the flavor of each would remain pure.  I'd highly recommend checking one of these pairing meals out for yourself.  Chef Brooks puts on quite the show and you are sure to leave completely stuffed, satiated, and impressed by his culinary prowess.
     That being said, coming for their regular lunch and dinner menu is no less gratifying.  By far one of the best dining spots in Brickell, and possibly all Miami.  To see what they've got cooking, check their website (http://www.edgerestaurantmiami.com/) or follow them on twitter @EdgeMiami.
  
You can also just come in for yourself at:
     The Four Seasons Hotel
     Edge Steakhouse
     1435 Brickell Avenue, Miami, FL
     305-381-3190

     

Gabose Korean and Japanese Restaurant: Seriously Superb Seoul Food

     Growing up in Broward, I cannot believe how long it took me to discover this gem!  From the street it doesn't look like anything special, just another older building along University.

Once you enter the restaurant, it is immediately apparent that you are in for an authentic meal.  Apart from the fact that the composition of diners is 90% Korean, which is always a great sign, the menu is written in both Korean and English, and they even offer pamphlets and newspapers in Korean by the front door (or at least I assume it's Korean since I really can't read it).  The dining room is cozy, with three different seating options.  There are more private rooms, and hibachi style grills in the back if you want to cook your own food, along with some regular tables and booths in the center of the space.

     The menu can be a bit daunting with so many delectable sounding options, but I'd recommend grabbing an appetizer (panchan) to start.  The Heamul Pajun is a pancake composed of egg, flour, shrimp, bay scallops, squid, mussels, and scallion.  In my opinion, it is kind of like a Spanish tortilla filled with leeks and seafood.  Served like a pizza, you can grab a triangle and dip in the garlic soy sauce, although it can be a bit tricky with the metal chopsticks they provide.  I have never had a problem with wooden chopsticks, but for some inexplicable reason, the metal really highlights my inexperience as I fumble to get the eggy concoction into my mouth.  Thankfully, it does tend to fall apart a bit on its own, a fortuitous side effect of being packed to capacity with so much delectable seafood.

     Another alternative is the Boo Choo Jun, a Korean leek pancake.  Again, the "pancake" is actually closer to a frittata, and this one is green-tinged from all the leeks.  An absolute umami explosion, this savory starter is perfect for sharing.

      My favorite of the Korean entrees is the bulgogi.  The term "bulgogi" literally means "fire meat," and the thinly sliced rib-eye meat comes stove cooked on a skillet, and it is marinated in a delicious garlic soy that is slightly sweet.  Then, the dish is sprinkled with sesame seeds and diced spring onions.  As a result of all the sauce, the beef is incredibly juicy and tender, and I adore spooning the  addictive liquid over my serving of slightly sticky white rice.

 The chicken gui is described as charcoal cooked chicken breast "served with our soy/garlic/ginger BBQ sauce."  The chicken we received was redolent of mesquite flavor, but it was kind of bland without the robust red sauce.  Even with their description, the "sauce" turned out to be quite different from what I had expected, almost paste-like in texture.  Combining it with the chicken reminded me of what I can only explain as American chicken wings in buffalo sauce with bleu cheese.  The dish was served with some large leaves of crisp lettuce, so you could make a "lettuce wrap" with the meat if you felt so inclined.

     Along with any of the  BBQ charcoal or BBQ stovetop entrees, you get a full traditional spread, with everything from bean sprouts to kimchi (pickled cabbage).  On one of my visits we even got a bowl of something that reminded me of a creamy potato salad, complete with bits of Red Delicious apples.  While some bowls, like the demure cucumber slices in a tangy broth or the cold mushrooms, are merely refreshing, others (usually the ones bearing the tell-tale fiery red sauce) have some serious kick.  The fish slices are a bit salty and rubbery with a subtle hint of sweetness, and come with shredded carrots.  I devour them with great gusto, finding them a nice counterpoint to the other flavors and textures.  Also, if you run out of any of the sides, they will gladly bring you more upon request.

     Another fantastic option is the bibimbab.  The Haemool Dolsot Bibimbab comes with steamed rice, seafood, and mixed vegetables in a heated stone pot.  I tend to find that of the seafood I encounter most frequently in the bowl (if there are other types), there is a overwhelming majority of squid and octopus.  They suggest mixing the dish together when it arrives, and if you aren't heat intolerant, you can toss in their hot sauce as well.  It kind of reminded me of a fried rice sans soy, with crunchy bits of charred rice stuck to the bottom, and a whole lot of savory flavor.

I've been unlucky when it comes to their desserts, as they always seem to be out of what I want.  In theory though they offer mochi and several flavors of ice cream, including red bean and even popcorn.
     Truly a rare commodity in South Florida, Gabose is well worth venturing to find.  They do offer Japanese options as well, like sushi and katsu, but since this is one of the few places you can actually get quality Korean, I'd suggest taking advantage of the opportunity  Also, if you get two or more entrees from the BBQ Charcoal or BBQ stovetop sections on the menu, you can take charge of your own destiny (err, rather dinner), and they will allow you the option of cooking the meal yourself at a stove on your table.  Personally I'd rather they do it for me so I don't risk messing it up, but it can be a fun alternative.
     Don't worry if you're new to Korean, the staff is absolutely wonderful, very friendly and willing to explain the dishes or offer up suggestions.  If you'd like to check out Gabose for yourself, head over to:
     4991 North University Drive  Lauderhill, FL 33351
     (954) 572-4800

     

Blue Collar: Comfort Food for the Masses

     Blue Collar is that gratifying combination of classic American and quality cuisine.  The location alongside Biscayne, might seem a bit questionable.  It is after all, located in the Motel-district, and the restaurant itself is part of a compound where you expect people pay by the hour.  Overlooking the dodgy area though you'll find yourself in for a treat.  The cozy restaurant boasts several wooden tables packed together, and the walls are decorated with punch out cards, old-school style lunch pails, and a chalkboard laden with the daily specials.  When the weather is nice they will also set up tables outside, offering additional seating for those times when the main room is too crowded for comfort (which happens frequently since the space is small and the food is in high demand).
   While the menu boasts multiple sections, I always seem to end up sharing a couple of "nosh/apps"and then splitting the veggie plate.  Not that the entrees don't sounds delicious as well, I just can never resist the tantalizing choices in the upper left of the menu!
     The "mac" is a scrumptios mix of cavatappi pasta, trugole, cheddar, and parm cheese.  A far cry from the lurid orange you'll find out of a box of Kraft, the sauce is thick, gooey, and really coats the al dente pasta spirals.  Typically restaurants striving to make "unique" versions of this dish fail, and in my experience it is a rare commodity to find a restaurant that really does manage to stand out.  Blue Collar actually hits the nail on the head so to speak, paying homage to the quintessential childhood staple while managing to imbue their own style.  The portion comes topped with a sprinkling of buttery bread crumbs to give the dish some crunch.  The appetizer portion is large enough to share, but if you're really a mac and cheese fan I'd suggest getting your own so you don't have to.
     Another choice that apparently was a childhood staple for many, is the pork and beans. The smoky meat is combined with a heaping serving of saucy beans and the entire concoction is topped off with a fried egg.  Alongside the bulk of the dish are two hearty slabs of crusty bread (perfectly soft inside and crisp at the edges), so you can soak up the spicy sauce, really enjoying the dish that is a classic part of American culinary history (how many other dishes can you recall being served to soldiers in the Civil War).

     One of my personal favorites here is the vaca frita topped tostones.  Ok this isn't an American classic, but being in Miami I'm sure this dish is traditional fare for many.  Crispy flattened plantains serve as the base for a pile of tender, shredded flank steak, and then the dish is topped with fresh chives and a tangy and creamy orange mojo.  While you can't exactly down an entire serving in one bite (unless you're able to dislocate your jaw like a snake, in which case I'm impressed), each one provides a couple of satisfying nibbles in which you get the full gamut of textures in one savory little snack. 

     Even the pot of mussels here has some pizzazz.  Obviously subscribing to the theory that "everything is better with bacon" they tame the spicy broth with thick-cut slabs of pork and lots of onions and peppers.

     Let's be honest, unless you're a vegetarian or you know you're going to get something extraordinary, vegetables are rarely the source of unmitigated enthusiasm.  That being said, I've yet to meet someone that doesn't rave about these healthful sides at Blue Collar.  The menu rotates with what is seasonally available, and while you can choose any singular veggie for $4, you can also get a mixed veggie plate with four choices for $14. I've definitely found some are better than others, but with four choices you should be able to find some things you really enjoy.  Among my favorites, I'd say the curried cauliflower puree really packs some interesting garlic and spiced flavor, and you can't go wrong with the basic tomato and mozzarella.  A caprese salad might not be the most inventive but the juicy tomatoes burst in your mouth and the acidic flavor is quelled quite nicely with the creamy, round balls of mozzarella and aromatic basil.  I also really liked the spaghetti squash with parm and butter, which I found to be a decadent pile of mushy vegetarian bliss.  It not only looks like a heaping pile of spaghetti, but drenched in cheese and butter it literally melts in the mouth.  The cheese grits can be hit or miss but either way are a cut above most.  At the other end of the spectrum, the biggest disappointments for me were the brussel sprouts and maple carrots.  I do adore a good brussel, but the time I tried them they were kind of dry and devoid of flavor (except the pungent bitterness of unblanched sprouts).  I was also really let down with the maple carrots, which sounded so promising, but I ended up tremendously disliking.  Rather than being tender and soaked with flavor, the carrots were pretty solid, and then just placed in a pool of maple.  I also found something to be off in the seasoning.  Like I said though, while you might not like everything, half the fun is getting to try and with so many options you're bound to find at least a couple of ways to make getting your vegetables a desirable choice!

Clockwise: Sweet maduros,  roasted artichoke hearts with lemon aioli,
caramelized brussel sprouts, and spaghetti squash

Clockwise: Cheese grits, cool tomato and mozarella salad,
curried cauliflower puree,  and roasted carrots with maple syrup

   The dessert menu isn't exactly lengthy but sometimes all it takes is one great choice...the one to go with here is the infamous butterscotch heath bar bread pudding.  It errs on cloying at times, but the chili-laced whip cream adds an interesting kick and the dense "pudding" is moist and utterly unforgettable.  Also, when you need a pick me up, be sure to grab some coffee (Panther coffee of course), which comes aptly served in a kitschy thermos. 
     For as long as I can remember, I've been called "opinionated."  Being completely honest, this is pretty accurate, and I'll admit that apart from being very picky, I do tend to prefer restaurants with long lists of hard to pronounce ingredients where I can have dishes that aren't served at every other restaurant in town.  Depending on who I'm with this can make dining out tricky as my first choices aren't necessarily the kinds of things enjoyed by other family members and friends.  Some dining companions don't like seafood, others who will only eat seafood, and there is a handful who are straight vegetarians.  Trying to find places to eat that will satisfy everyone is by no means an easy feat.  However, when looking for somewhere that can offer the simple, well-made dishes with something for your entire party, I'd highly recommend Blue Collar.  The perfect compromise, they've got options for every taste and the prices are very reasonable.  The food is every bit the traditional favorites you'll remember from your youth, only they manage to modernize the classics and upgrade the dishes to optimize the flavors.
     Blue Collar is open for lunch and weekend brunch too, so come in when you can and get your fix:

  Blue Collar
  6730 Biscayne Boulevard  Miami, FL 33138
  (305) 756-0366

So long to Sustain!

It is with great sadness that I report that Sustain is no longer with us.  Since it was one of my favorite spots in Miami, offering inventive cuisine and delectable drinks, I thought it only fair to pay homage to their brilliance with a picture memorial.  Wishing the chef, staff, and owners best of luck in their future ventures.

If you would like to see where they are headed, you can follow them on twitter at: @JELazar, @alejandropinero, @GinAndButter

Indomania Insanity

     Up until a few years ago, I had never known much about Indonesian cuisine.  Luckily a unique experience during Lights Out Miami, availed me the opportunity to sample the flavorful and exotic fare, and I've been hooked ever since.  Kind of a cross between Thai and Indian, Indonesian stands on its own as a major competitor for your standard Asian options.  Of the handful of Indonesian restaurants in Miami and elsewhere,  Indomania has definitely been my favorite.  Since Indonesia was a Dutch Colony until World War II, there is a lot of Dutch influence on the cuisine as well.  At Indomania they offer classic Indonesian that is "seen through Dutch eyes."
     Tucked away down a side street off Collins, you enter to find a cozy and intimate setting with a large bar, mirrored back wall with a lounge sofa, and several tables throughout the room decked out in authentic print tablecloths.  With the dim lighting and smooth 50s hits (think Frank Sinatra-style) playing seductively in the background, it makes a wonderful places to share good conversation and an exceptional meal.

     Don't expect your standard bread basket, they start you out with a plate of crisp crackers (emping) made from the Melinjo tree, and some peanut sauce for dipping.  The emping are very light (and not at all greasy) with a slightly bitter taste.  However, with the addition of their sweeter peanut sauce, these snacks are seriously addictive.  I've been with large groups that can down an entire serving within minutes of having them placed on the table.  Luckily, they're usually very generous and will bring you more upon request.

   Starting with their appetizers, the sate tempeh is an interesting choice.  Alternating between fried tofu and soybean tempeh cubes on skewers, it is supple, and a bit oaty.  They've also got lumpia, vegetarian springrolls that come in a dainty, crisp case.
      When ready to start with the entrees, I'd highly recommend getting one of their rijsttafels for the full authentic experience.  A rijsttafel is a Dutch word that literally means "rice table," and it includes a miniature feast with an assortment of small dishes.  Scoping out the selections you'll notice they have something for everyone from carnivores to vegetarians.  Perusing the menu with the lengthy list of items you'll be receiving, it can seem daunting, but I promise it is well worth it and doesn't end up being so much you can't walk.  Based upon how many people plan to split it, they portion each dish out accordingly.  They do require a minimum of two persons, but they will dole out larger portions for larger parties wanting to share.
     For a party of three, this is what the Rijsttafel Java looks like:

     For a larger group the portions look more like this:

Usually I stick with the Rijsttafel Java which includes:
- Sate Ayam (Grilled chicken skewer with peanut sauce): Perfectly charred tender white meat doused with their sweet and nutty sauce
- Ayam Besengek(Boneless chicken in mild coconut curry): Silky sauce with huge hunks of meat, this one can stand the addition of a bit of their hot sauce
- Semur Jawa (Slow cooked beef in kecap sauce): My favorite of the dishes, this uber tender meat comes surrounded with a sweet soy sauce that I use to add additional flavor to the rice sides.
- Babi Kecap (Pork in ginger, vinegar and sweet soy sauce)
-  Nasi Putih (Steamed white rice)
-  Nasi Kuning (Yellow rice, lemongrass, kunyit & galanga)
-  Gulai Telur (Boiled egg in curry sauce): Fairly straightforward the hardboiled egg is halved and topped with a zesty yellow curry
-  Sambal G Buncis (Crispy, spiced string beans):  Be warned these are far more spicy than you would expect!
- Tumis Sayuran (Stirfried mixed vegetables)
- Acar Ketimoen (Pickles, cucumber and carrots)
- Rujak Manis (Indonesian fruit salad)
- Krupuk Udang (Shrimp cracker): Each person gets a single light and airy crisp.  Nice to snack on alone or to use as a makeshift spoon to sop up the other sauces/ingredients
- Serundeng (Fried coconut and peanuts): A snappy and crunchy combination that works on top of all the plates
- Sambal Uleg (Spicy sauce):  Far too hot for a wimp like me, but makes a nice addition to the various dishes when you're looking for more heat

The staff will gracefully place each plate on the table like a masterful ballerina, performing an exquisite dance as they manage to find space for every bowl.  Meanwhile, they kindly explain each of the dishes as they go.

If you go with the rijsttafel Sumatra most of the dishes are the same but also includes:
- Rendang Padang (Beef stew in thick, spiced coconut sauce):  This beef stew has some heat, but was very tender and flavorful
- Sambal G Udang (Shrimps with peteh beans in coconut sauce):  Like the curried egg, shrimp cracker, and curried egg, each person getting the dinner receives one shrimp, drowned in an interestingly tangy sauce
- Gado Gado (Salad with string beans, cabbage & tofu):  Lots of coconut milk, we found the salad was different but kind of bland.
- Oseng Terong (Eggplant Stew):  I'm not quite sure what they use to make this but it tasted like a garlicky, sweet soy, and the eggplant we recieved was soft and mushy since it is soaked in the liquid.  Utterly delectable, I really enjoyed it!
Also, instead of the Nasi Kuning (yellow rice) you get Nasi Goreng (a fried rice).

Fresh fruit sorbet may sound simple, but you can't go wrong with a tart and fruity palate cleanser.

Dadar gulinf is a traditional Indonesian dessert, which comes with lurid green pandan pancakes filled with fresh coconut and palm sugar, and it is served with a luscious coconut ice cream.  The pancake itself reminds me of a chewy crepe, and I've found my favorite way to eat it is to use each serving like a miniature ice cream cone.  

So it may be a little different from the traditional American version, and the taste can take some getting used to, but the black rice pudding is an interesting variation of rice pudding.  Nutty and kind of crunchy, it was unlike any other rice pudding I'd tried and was kind of more like a strong oatmeal.  Personally I didn't care for it since it felt more like breakfast than dessert, but the addition of the coconut ice cream did lend it some much needed sweetness.

Another interesting choice is the Spekkoek, a traditional Dutch-Indonesian layered cinnamon cake with toasted coconut shavings and the creamy coconut ice cream.  The thin slices of moist cake were fairly brittle, but that didn't take away from the deliciousness!  The cinnamon is pretty overt in this artful dessert, but there is also notes of other spices like anise and clove.

Truly a hidden gem worth checking out!  Definitely make reservations if you plan to go, especially on weekends, or you might end up sitting at the bar (if that's even available).


 Indomania
 131 26th Street
 Miami Beach, FL 33140
 (305) 535-6332
 http://www.indomaniarestaurant.com/