Eating House Pops Up in the Gables

 

     The name Eating House doesn't sound particularly inventive nor inviting, to be honest, it's reminiscent of the term "slaughterhouse," which quite frankly is an image I like to pretend has nothing to do with the food in front of me (their logo doesn't help, see right).  I know realistically meat comes from somewhere, but if I can detach myself as much as possible from the actual process, all the better for my enjoyment.  Luckily, Eating House is nothing remotely close, with the only semblance to a slaughterhouse being the death they bring to boring, trite dishes.  What they create is anything but traditional!  They'll reek havoc on your conceptions of what can be credible and exquisite cuisine with Duck a l'Fanta, Japanese Eggplant with maduro miso and more.  Expect the unexpected, in a funky fusion of flavors using a dash of Asian fish sauce, a dousing of Iron Beer, and even re-inventing your standard birthday cake.  Pop-up restaurants have become a bit of a double edged sword, I love when a place goes all out to push the limits of food to make it pleasurable and unique, but it devastates me to think there is a limited shelf life.
      Eating House is located in Cafe Ponce (which is usually open during breakfast and lunch), on Ponce de Leon and just on the cusp of Calle Ocho.  The decor is nothing particularly warm nor complex, but with a pop-up it's really all about the food.  It's intimate, yet got ample seating, with stark white walls, save for the exception of a couple colorful graffiti canvases.  Grabbing a bistro-style table in the back, my dining partner and I perused the menu, trying to narrow down our choices from a gamut of unconventional sounding selections.
       First up was a caprese salad on steroids, the "Homestead tomatoes."   Served with colorful heirlooms, lime, ginger, nuoc cham, peanuts, frozen coconut milk, herbs, and local flowers, the presentation was a lovely blending of colors and textures.  Taste-wise it was perfection, the cloud-bits of frozen coconut milk melting into the nuoc cham to give a creamy sweetness that played off the tangy tomatoes and crunchy salty bits of peanuts.  I've had salads a million times, and yet nothing can adequately describe how utterly ethereal and well balanced it was.  I could eat this every day and never get sick of it.

     Next on the menu we tried "niman ranch the pork belly" which came with a sweet plantain puree, smoked guava, pickled spring onions and lime salt.  Tender cubes of meat with a lovely carmelization, I attempted to make the most of each bite so that none went without the creamy maduros sauce.  One was served with cilantro flowers on top and the other with micro-spring onions.  While both were tasty, we inexplicably tended to prefer the cilantro flowers.

   In an attempt to go where my stomach has not ventured before, we also ordered the "'bulgogi' chicken hearts," with Korean BBQ sauce, crispy brussel sprouts, sriracha pickles and toasted seasame.  If you've never seen an actual heart (the perfectly shaped visual representations you see on Valentine's Day are quite different) this might be a little less off-putting visually, but taste and texture-wise, I found the hearts to be similar to a hot-dog.  Basically, don't think about it and just enjoy because the brussels were well-cooked so as to not maintain an overly biter flavor, and together with the hearts and the sauce they all really complimented each other.

       This was a night of firsts for me, and in addition to the new twists on the previously mentioned dishes and my foray into heart, I discovered that not all salmon has to be fishy.  The olfactory system is highly complex and is able to detect far more combinations than the simple system rooted in taste (for which we have five taste receptors divided into sweet, sour, salty, bitter and umami).  Accordingly, our sense of smell accounts for a huge portion of what we tend to equate with the flavor of a dish.  For me, it has been this strong odor-link that has prevented me from ever enjoying salmon.  After multiple guarantees from my dining companion that sockeye would be far more suited to my palate, we put in an order.  I'm so glad I gave it a chance, because it truly was every bit as delicious as I was promised.  The "sockeye salmon" was served with roasted calbaza, french toast crumbs, a smoked Iron Beer, and pepitas.  Together it tasted like breakfast!  The firm, peachy-pink fish completely lacked any overbearing odor or taste, and the oily skin lifted right off.  The Iron Beer reduction served as a more unique, and less gloppy "maple syrup," which enhanced the flavor of the protein and the French toast crumbles.  A filling and fun entree that never felt too heavy.

  We rounded off the meal with "strawberry 'shortcake'."  Fluffy mountains of airy sponge cake were perched atop stewed strawberries.  Then fresh berries were sliced and sprinkled atop the peaks, with meringue crumbles that looked like snow.  It was served with a tart lemon ice cream, which again made a good yin to the yang of sweetness, keeping the dessert delectable without becoming cloying.  My only teensy complaint would have been that I'd have like more than one scoop of ice cream, as trying to divide one up for the three hills of angel food cake proved and inequitable division (and it was so good I wanted a bit along with each bite of the cake).  Overall though, it was the Goldilocks equation of "just right" on the sweet front, a dessert that doesn't weigh you down and cleanses the palate.

        Each dish was a scrumptious work of art, and we were lucky enough that as each course was brought out the waiter took the time to kindly explain each component.  The execution of each dish was sublime and managed to balance flavors and textures in a masterful way.  It's another one of those places where you can tell the chef genuinely loves what he is doing and isn't afraid to try the unexpected.  I admit I've never seen Chopped so I didn't know much about Giorgio Rapicavoli before trying Eating House, but it's a name I won't soon forget.  After experiencing combinations I'd never been exposed to nor would I have thought to put together myself, I can't help but want to rush back as often as possible before they're gone.  Head over ASAP so you don't miss out!

 Eating House
 804 Ponce de Leon Blvd
 Coral Gables, FL 33134 
 http://eatinghousemiami.com/
 You can also follow Eating House on twitter @eating_house

neMesis: Let the fun-shine in!

“In another moment down went Alice after it, never once considering how in the world she was to get out again.”

               ~Charles Lutwidge Dodgson under the pseudonym, Lewis Carroll

         My personal experiences at neMesis have left me feeling a bit like Alice staggering through the rabbithole.  While the surrounding area might be a bit decrepit and questionable (minus the recent addition of the Corner), from the moment you walk in the door you've entered a completely different realm.  Multicolored umbrellas hang overhead, fragmented mirror bits grace the bar's surface like a million tiny stars, whilst neckties strain to break free from the pack as art on the walls.  It's whimsical, quirky, eclectic and playful!

     The front bears the inscription: "Those lacking imagination and a sense of humor are not welcome at neMesis. Please return from whence you came, and do not darken our door again!"  And they do mean it.  This is not the kind of place you should come and order an entree with tons of changes and substitutions, as the menu is is carefully constructed and lovingly imagined, to create the optimal combinations of ingredients, and to provide a delicate balance of textures and flavors.  The restaurant is all about enjoying yourself, and being willing to try dishes you might not have had before, nor had you ever thought to.  I'll admit I had experienced a bit of trepidation after hearing that the chef could be a bit temperamental.  Let me just say that couldn't be further from the woman I've met.
     Chef Micah Edelstein is a friendly woman, with a genuine interest in explaining the ingredients and a passion for the cuisine that is just infectious.  She kind and vivacious, and it's expressed in her cooking, which is truly one-of-a-kind and just plain fun.  As South African native, she creates several dishes influenced by her home, and you'd be hardpressed to find anything quite like them anywhere else in Miami.  Also, her adorable daughter Matilda is often present, bringing over snacks of cheese bread and sometimes showing you her latest crayon masterpieces.  It really makes you feel like you're part of the neMesis family in a way that other restaurants lack completely.
     When you're ready to start the meal, it can be a tough decision whether to begin with a "cool couple" or a "sexy nibble."  Let me assure you you really can't go wrong no matter which direction you choose! 
     The Fig-Elicious Braised Duck Potstickers, are beautiful little purses, filled with a tender and flavorful meat.  Although they are good on their own, the guava cardamom dipping sauce only makes them better, adding a dulcet dimension of flavor that doesn't overshadow the duck meat.  I don't think I've ever come to Nemesis and resisted the temptation.

Also, my more recent discovery (and my now favorite dish) is the P4, so named for being the quadruple "P"s of Purple Peruvian Pignoli Pancakes, which are served with their own housemade apple chicken sage sausage and crisp sage leaves.  The smoky little pinwheels and juicy links of sausage are incredibly flavorful, and the addition of  hibiscus syrup and maple granules adds the perfect contrasting touch of sweetness.  I should admit my dining partner disliked the sugary flavors and thought it was too much for her, but I personally really enjoyed that aspect and thought it balanced things out.

The lamb sosaties is served with apricots and a minty yogurt.  Apparently, sosaties this is a typical South African dish of skewered mutton or lamb (for those that are ignorant like me and do not have wikipedia handy) which are threaded with fruit such as apricots, and then pan-fried, grilled, or cooked outside on a braai (BBQ).  Also, the rich meat is often marinated in a tamarind marinade, which is how Chef Micah prepares it.  We wolfed these down in no time as the combination of fruit, creamy sauce and tender meat proved too delicious to resist.  Even better, our inner children had quite a bit of fun using the leftover sticks as makeshift swords for a tableside duel (this might have been partially encouraged after consumption of some of their refreshing beers).

If you don't fill up on all the irresistible starters, there is plenty of creativity in the entrees too.  The lamb ragout agnolotti served with a "cowardly" (no nuts...love it) pesto and aged parmigiano reggiano.  It was nothing like I would picture a traditional agnolotti to be, and yet I really enjoyed this dish.  It was an incredible amalgamation of flavors, with the thickness of the pasta being a bit chewy and plenty of tender meat adding to the overall experience.

Another stellar hit for me is their Maya Nut Piri Piri Bison.  A far cry from your average meat and potatoes dish, they manage to knock this one out of the park.  While bison conjures up images from my hunting days on Oregon Trail, I've found it pretty uncommon on many menus.  Furthermore, it takes a lot of skill to get it right in actual execution since  there is a huge possibility that it will be a tough, gamey meat, and others tend to have missed the mark.  In spite of this potential pitfall, at neMesis, it is nothing short of splendorous.  Like a perfectly toasted marshmallow, the outside maintains a nice char, whilst the inner portion remains juicy.  There was a slight kick from the piri piri peppers, but thankfully, nothing too extreme.  Despite the addition of a huckleberry dark chocolate sauce to the meat, I found the glaze to taste more savory than I had expected.  Instead, the sweetness in the dish actually came from the butternut sage hash.  Little cubes of a delectable squash (which I assume must be maple glazed) were a great contrast to the smokiness of the meat.

I admit I tend to be completely heat intolerant, so I'm always worried that peppers will numb my mouth to the extent that I can't taste anything else.  As Chef Micah kindly explained, the trick with piri piri is that is adds a smoky flavor but doesn't actually burn your throat.  Success for one type of pepper I can handle!  I was still a bit curious so she even brought me over some to get a better look and then generously gifted me a few (wrapped in Saran Wrap) for me to take home!  In case you're wondering, this is what they look like:

To be totally honest, my gauge for a good restaurant is typically their dessert menu.  It begins with a little game of, is it going to be inventive and unique or will I find your average cheesecake, key lime pie, chocolate cake?  I've found that typically the more staid desserts menus tend to have equally unambitious and adequate but unexciting food.  neMesis did not disappoint on this front, and as a fan of Amarula ever since I discovered the creamy, caramely, fruity liquor during a cruise trip in undergrad, I went with the Warm Malva Pudding.  If you've ever had a traditional British sticky toffee pudding, this this is much more similar to that than the American notions of thick liquid pudding.  Instead, you receive a little block of moist and spongy cake, that tasted like a fall pumpkin bread, and had a bit of extra kick from more of those wonderful piri piri peppers.  Together with the smooth Amarula, it was the perfect balance of spice and caramel, cream and cake.

If it isn't already blatantly obvious, I think the food is completely exceptional and well worth checking out.  This is not your cookie-cutter restaurant and really feels like an extension of Chef Micah's home.  Her personality is evident is every aspect of the place, and it really feels like a grownup culinary playground.  I highly recommend making reservations in advance as it can get very packed.  This is a true neighborhood gem and a very welcome addition to an area in need of some revamping.  To check it out for yourself:
      www.nemesisbistro.com/        
     1035 North Miami Avenue  Miami, FL 33136
     (305) 415-9911
You can also follow neMesis on twitter for their specials or upcoming events @neMesisbistro

Brunching at Michael's Genuine

     Somewhere between breakfast and lunch lies a wonderful marriage of a meal that manages to combine the two.  Yes that's right brunch, I'm talking to you!  A completely brilliant invention, weekend brunch allows you to really make the most of those lazy Sunday mornings.  Irrespective of your activities the evening before, I love the idea of being able to roll around in bed and slowly take your time getting dressed, without concern about needing to be in the office by 8 or 9am.  As a grad student, we are taught that weekends don't exist, an elusive myth quite like unicorns, yet I still appreciate the excuse for breaking from my labwork (or filling up before I have to head in) for a tasty repast. In homage to my favorite meal of the week, I decided it was time for a post on one of the best brunch spots in the city, Michael's Genuine. 
    Since they started offering brunch I've seen a slew of changes and rotating options.  The plates seem to have gotten slightly stingier, but I guarantee they are no less delicious.  While there are a couple of standard items you can typically find, other selections will vary on a weekly basis.  Accordingly, you could potentially hit up Michael's pretty regularly and still manage to try quite a few new things. 
   Brunch begins at a leisurely 11, which is the best time to arrive if you haven't made reservations already (which I strongly recommend).  The outside courtyard is lovely, with large trees and a relaxed atmosphere.  While it is open-air style, the tables have large umbrellas if it starts to drizzle.

Inside is a bit cozier, with lots of windows opening to the courtyard, dark furniture, and red hanging lanterns setting the scene for a comfortable meal.

If you did not plan ahead, don't fret, typically there are some first come first serve seats at the bar, although this will not work if you've got a larger party.

Clockwise from top: Monkey bread,
cheesecake (I think peach), onion dip, and kimchee benedict

     Michael's brunch works kind of family-style, meaning the best way to make the most of the experience is to share a couple of dishes.  They do tend to fill you up surprisingly quickly, so be careful not to go overboard at the beginning (they'll let you keep a menu anyways so you can order throughout the meal if you're still hungry).  Don't be discouraged into thinking that because of all the hype you'll end up spending a fortune.  Depending on how many people are in the group, you can sometimes get away relatively cheaply.  Without alcoholic drinks I've managed to keep costs down to as little as $12 a person for a party of 3, and we still all left incredibly satiated and satisfied.

Watermelon Juice

     If you are craving something alcoholic, be warned the drinks can add up fast.  However, they are incredibly delightful.  My personal favorite is the Cabarete which is made with aperol, st. germain, champagne, soda water, and fresh watermelon juice.  It a vast improvement over your banal mimosa!  I'm also pretty partial to the Sonny Rollins, which includes basil, hayden bourbon, lavender/green/black teas, orange blossom honey, soda, orange bitters, lemon, and crushed ice.  I've never had anything quite like it, and the combination of flavors is positively stellar.  I was also pleasantly surprised by their non-alcoholic watermelon juice, which was far less cloying than I would have expected, and proved to be utterly refreshing.
    The menu is divided up into savory, sweets, breads, eggs and things, meats, and snacks.  There are a couple of options that regularly seem to appear on the menu, so I'll start with those.   Among the savory selections, one of my absolute must-haves is the kimchi benedict.  Even the most staunch opponent of this dish has been pleasantly surprised when we've ordered it.  It might not much size wise, but it packs some serious flavor, and I've found the best way to enjoy it is to try to make sure each bite you take has equal amounts of everything...pork belly, english muffin, kimchi, poached pns farm egg, and hollandaise.  Together it's the perfect zesty and tangy punch of scrumptious flavors.  When sharing, this is the one I always cross my fingers for and hope that my portion will be the slightly larger piece!

Kimchi Benedict

Next up, it's a bit tricky to share, but the Wood Oven Roasted Double Yolk Egg is a cheesy, melty cup of goodness.  The eggs are just a bit runny inside, there are a couple of fresh roasted tomato bits, and the bubbling cave aged gruyere on top tastes every bit as appealing as it smells (and you can smell it two tables away).  The little piece of crusty sourdough crostini it's served with goes fairly quickly, so I'd recommend getting one their homemade rosemary crumpets for a mere $2, which are the perfect chewy companion to soak up all the deliciousness.  Even if you don't order this dish I'd recommend getting the crumpets which are one of the few breads they make there, and they are superb.

Wood Oven Roasted Double Yolk Egg
 

   Another enjoyable and filling, yet inexpensive, option is the pan fried onion dip with thick cut potato chips.  It comes out pretty quickly when you've hungry and the creamy dip is loaded with strings of caramelized onions.  Absolutely delectable!  In addition, if bacon is typically a must for you in the morning, I'd recommend branching out and ordering the pig ear salad.  It might sound a bit odd, but it is flavorful and has a nice crisp to it!  The breakfast pizza made with house smoked bacon, pns farm egg, monterey jack, and scallions is another popular choice, although personally I'm not the biggest fan (mostly through my own prejudice against any crust that reminds me of matzah).  My guy friends dig it though as they claim "the bacon and egg makes it a morning food," and that it is "far more socially acceptable than eating leftover slices from two nights ago."

Breakfast Pizza

      As for the sweets, you can't go wrong with any of Hedy's treats, but some have definitely enticed me more than others.  I was pleasantly surprised by the 9 grain pancake, a thick and hearty serving with some serious seed crunch.  I'm a bit embarrassed to admit that I stayed away from ordering this initially, simply under the misapprehension that "pancakes are generic and all taste about the same no matter where you go."  That being said, whatever magic she uses, I would never be able to make anything quite like it, and I love that they serve it with real maple syrup.  It has since become one of my compulsory ordering options.

Wood Oven Baked 9 Grain Pancake

    Another light choice is the lemon ricotta pancakes, which are are teensy, fluffy disks, accompanied by a fruit compote of some sort.  The type of the compote will vary by visit (from strawberry to blueberry to tangerine), but whichever option is available, it provides a nice contrast for the tartness of the lemon.  Most of the desserts do tend to rotate flavors and fillings regularly, although on the menu, there is usually always French toast, doughnuts, sticky buns, cakes, cupcakes, or pop-tarts of some kind.  While I've never been much of a pop-tart fan, even I can't deny the flaky crust stuffed with an array of fillings (Yuzu anyone?).  An example of their variety includes the French toast which has been everything from chai tea French toast with candied kumquats, to Almond French Toast with pear, to a coconut rum French toast.  If they have the lemon (or whichever flavor) pot de creme available, it is a unique and enchanting choice.  There is also frequently a section listed as "Hedy's childhood treats." Originally, you were forced to order a whole platter of snacks, even if you wanted only one kind, but they now allow you to select each as individual menu items.  Under this section you can find reinvented versions of everything from nutter butters, to oreos, to fig newtons.
   The food is fresh and inventive, and the atmosphere is a sublime combination of lively and laid back.  So come, relax, and enjoy, cause their brunch really is worth the hype!
     Michael's Genuine Food and Drink
     130 Northeast 40th Street
     Miami, FL 33137
     (305) 573-5550