Cobaya experiment #23: Sustain

For quite a while I've been curious about the wacky, inventive and downright saliva-inducing meals, or rather "experiments" at the Cobaya dinners.  An unexpected "lottery win,"  I couldn't believe our good fortune when I found out we'd made the cut.  After an agonizing few weeks of guessing "what chef will they snag this time" we found ourselves at Sustain, a restaurant I'm already fond of (my previous Sustain review), and where I had no qulams that the chef would be up to the challenge.  I couldn't wait to see what would happen when they had free reign to unleash their creativity without fear of substitutions or complaints from picky eaters (as this is one of the known caveats to Cobaya, there are no choices and you are not allowed to make alterations).
     They generously closed off the restaurant, allowing us to spread out inside the dining room.  Once seated at the tables, we were able to peruse the menu listing all of the courses, for which there was a Sicilian theme going.  I'll admit I don't quite know enough Italian to try to guess what the dishes were (not that this stopped me from trying), but thankfully the chef and manager came out to introduce themselves to to give us an extensive description of the meal in store.

   The apertivo included a lovely champagne flute filled with a housemade blood orange sorbet and slushy averna (a Sicilian liqueur).  An interesting and calculated choice, it served the dual purpose of cleansing our palates with the citrus, while stimulating our appetites further with the averna (a known aperitif).

Next up gamberi with lardo and ricci di mare.   "Gamberi" are large shrimp, that were served Spanish-style, meaning the full shell was intact.  It has been said that the best way to enjoy them, is to try to crack it open and suck out the head for its savory and nutritious benefits.  I know it's considered pretentious in Spain to try to do so with silverware, but I'll admit using my hands just seemed too messy.  The meat from the shrimp itself was magnificently sweet and fresh, and consummated perfectly with the thick, creamy, pudding-like lardo and silky, rich uni.  A truly gluttonous feast.

To transition between the generously portioned "snacks"and the pasta (a traditional first main plate course in an Italian meal) we received a high-quality salad, complete with seppie, 'oliva', frisée and caviar.  With far more gusto that such a refined dish requires I couldn't help but down the entire plate.  The frisée was incredibly light and flavorful, while the cuttlefish rings (both natural and breaded) and caviar pearls provided a subtle saltiness and balance.  I can't even begin to guess what they did with the olive to make it taste so unique, but all I can say is that if you could get that sneaky, slippery blob onto your spoon and into your mouth without bursting it, you were in for a fantastically fun explosion of olive flavor.

Enter the pasta course, "malloreddus con ragu di cinghale."  When I was in Italy this was one of the hardest concepts for me to master.  No matter how many restaurants we visited, nor how many insistances from my Italian friends that it's the proper way, I just can't find the room to stomach an entire plate of pasta as a mere "warm-up" (and this is after appetizers and/or salad of course).  I've become so accustomed to eating a heaping portion by itself (as are most Americans), that I'm usually full after the primi piatti.  This issue was only compounded by the knowledge that I had three courses to go and the plate that Sustain gave us was some of the most scrumptious pasta I've ever had.  Perfectly al dente little tendrils of malloreddus were lightly tossed with a bold cinghale (wild boar) ragu.  The earthy meat was exceptionally succulent, it coated the Sardinain pasta in an utterly phenomenal way.  The addition of quality slivers of fresh Italian cheese only bolstered my speed.  I'm ashamed to admit, I could not leave even a single piece on the plate, essentially filling up knowing I should not.  Highly successful!

    Considering I've been studying neuroscience for quite a while, I would like to make it clear that at no point in my studies or research have I ever looked at a brain and said "Yum!"  The whole zombie concept of brain consumption seemed little more than a remote and disgusting possibility in my line of work.  Hence when the course actually arrived I did what any curious foodie would do...I forced my inner Hannibal Lector to the surface, tried to forget about the origin of the dish (which wasn't easy considering the organ in question was presented inside the skull cavity), and dug in fork ready!  Mind over matter if you can transverse that psychological barrier, it was quite lovely.  Breaded and served with a tart lemon sauce with capers, I found it to be reminiscent of a cross between croquettas and chicken (or rather a tofu version) francese.  Once you finished that interesting culinary delicacy, we were instructed to flip the dish over where an entire half of a baby goat's head greeted up with teeth bared and a caramel colored finish.  Definitely impressive. Trying to break the meat free proved a bit of a fun game, tearing open cheeks and jaws to reach the very tender meat beneath.  By the end of the course our table looked like the elephant graveyard in the Lion King.

   Just when I thought I couldn't eat any more...out came dessert or rather, desserts.  The first of the two was a caradamom panna cotta with arancia rossa and torta all' olio d'oliva.  The cardamom was not as dominant as I had imagined, rather an interesting background on a vanilla base.  I've heard it said that you know your panna cotta (or cheesecake) is ready when it's the firmness is equitable to that of a natural breast. If that's the case, then Sustain hit it point on.  The candied pistachios added a nice contrasting amount of crunch to the jiggly velvet cream.  While the cube of olive oil cake was moist, it wasn't really my thing.  However that candied sunset colored arancia rossa (a red orange from Sicily) was divine! A chewy, caramely concoction that left me smacking my gums and trying to get every last drop of flavor out.

    And just because those generous and sadistic geniuses wanted to make sure I didn't eat for the next two days, out came dessert number two, sebadas stuffed with young pecorino with homemade almond milk sorbet and Sardinian honey.  Unlike the richness in the pannacotta, this dessert was sweet, but in a more subtle way.  The fried ravioli with pecorino would have been a strangely salty finish except the adddition of honey nullified this from happening.  The almond milk sorbet was subtle but absolutely etheral, reinforced with candied almond garnish to further stress the sweet/salty dicotomy.  As the final course it was just enough yin and yang to leave your palate perfectly neutralized.

  Thanks to Sustain, to Chef Alejandro Piñero for his wonderful handiwork, to Johnathan Lazar, and to Cobaya for putting the whole meal together!  It was the gourmet trip to Sicily I've never experienced.  I'd also like to thank the Miami Malt Bomb for his generous beer contributions throughout the evening.  Guava Groove, Les Deux Brasseurs, Vapeur de Bises...they really enhanced the innovative dishes we were brought.  Definitely a night I won't soon forget!

The Federal: Making Myth into Reality

Any restaurant that can make pigs fly and that is known for concocting a decadent dessert so elusive it has been nicknamed "the Unicorn" is bound to deliver a bit of magic.  The geniuses behind Phuc Yea thankfully didn't keep us waiting too long before opening another venture, bringing some life to a stretch of Biscayne in need of some quality options.  Unlike the heavily Vietnamese influenced cuisine of their last pop-up, the Federal is nothing short of 100% American inventive comfort food.  While the inside has the whole cozy inn-vibe going on, complete with stuffed animal heads hanging over a fireplace, the outdoor area is charming, with strings of white lights setting the scene for a pleasant meal.  You almost can imagine that any minute Thomas Jefferson himself might be walking through the door to grab a seat at the wooden tables inside the Colonial-style pub. 

Now that they've gotten settled, the Federal offers quite the impressive (and informative) wine list, along with some great beer options (Collaboration Not Litigation and Oskar Blues "Imperial Stout" by Ten Fiddy), and some tantalizing cocktails.  I personally really enjoyed the "American Violet" a refreshing drink made with muddled thyme, violet infused syrup, rosé wine, and cocchi americano.  When you're ready to order, make sure to start with some of their honey cheddar biscuits.  Hands down the best biscuits I've ever had, I wolfed mine down in no time smothered with that creamy rich butter.  Balancing the sweet and savory dichotomy, these delicious little cakes are addictive!

 The jar-of-duck is definitely one of the more unique options.  Slow cooked Hudson Valley duck is shredded and served with toasted bread, a heaping pile of candied sweet potatoes, and a fluffy cloud of toasted marshmallows.  It is almost like being at a gourmet friend's idea of Thanksgiving dinner.  I highly recommend trying to get all the components onto one piece of bread for a truly decadent mini sandwich.
    Another gem is the "pig's wings."  The Apocalypse must be close because pigs are flying and their meat is quite delicious!  Ok fine, in reality pigs can't fly, but whatever it is falls off the bone in one fell swoop of the knife, and it's cooked with a nice tangy buffalo sauce.

   Don't you worry, they do try to find uses for the rest of the pig.  I had first been introduced to pig ears at Phuc Yea.  Taste-wise it's not that out there from bacon, however there is a bit of a textural twist from the cartilage.  I personally really enjoy it, but I could see how it might take others some getting used to.  Long gone are the days of the traditional breakfast potato hash, bacon, and eggs, this is a far cry from your average "Blue Plate Special."  Contrarily, you get a heaping portion of crunchy pig ears alongside a sweet pumpkin hash that plays off the smokiness in the home-spun sausage, and a perfectly pached duck egg, that is both crisp around the edges and gooey in the center.

Part of what I had really loved about Phuc Yea was their ability to push the envelope without producing really heavy dishes.  The plates were flavorful, but not neccessarily too much.  The Federal menu does seem to be more upscale American traditional-inspired, which means it isn't quite as light.  However, the day boat scallops were every bit the delicate, flavorful pièce de résistance I had hoped for from this team.  Paper thin slices of ultra fresh scallops in a graceful, fruity broth, it was an exceptional alternative.
    As for the entrees (or Big'Uns as they are called here), the lamb special with rutabaga and apple is killer.  A primal manifestation of a meal, the meat falls right off the massive shank bone, tender and hearty.  The rutabaga had that stewed consistency that made it palatably sweet to offser the lamb in a perfect complimentation.

The lamb burger is definitely not your ordinary burger, thick and juicy meat served with harvest moon goat cheese, a bold horse-radish mustard, chow-chow relish, and a pretzel bun.

If you're looking for a lighter choice, the charbroiled fish is prepared with finesse.  The skin peels away nicely to reveal lush, fresh fish beneath.  The night I went it was being served with a corn and zucchini succatash that was absolutely phenomenal.

The dessert menu varies frequently so it's kind of a surprise each time.  That being said if it is a possibility the elusive "Unicorn," the Pineapple Upside Down Cake, is every bit as fantastic as has been claimed.  I'm not much of a pineapple fan myself but even I can't deny that the moist airy cake with it's brown sugary carmelization, sops up that incredible vanilla coconut rum sauce in a masterfully winsome way.

Come indulge in the clever creations, and check it out for yourself at:
               5132 Biscayne Blvd
               Miami, FL 33137
They've also recently added a Sunday brunch!  To sign up for their mailing list or for more information about their menu you can also follow the Federal on twitter @TheFederalMia or visit their website at http://www.thefederalmiami.com/. 

A Little Slice of Haven!

  Just West of Alton lies a lounge that really is a cut above the rest.  It's got the uber-South Beach vibe you expect from the area, and yet manages to deliver some seriously cool music and even better food.  The interior space reminds me of a cross between a trendy lounge and Space Mountain at Disney World.  Tiny lights on the ceiling pulse, the bar change colors, and the walls are in constant flux, with images of Graffiti art, a library and even Miami.   The music is an eclectic mix of upbeat tunes with some cool indie rock thrown in for good measure.

   In order to optimize dancing space, the tables inside are closely packed together, with little cubes for seating.  If you don't quite feel comfortable sitting this way for prolonged periods you can grab a seat by the bar (which also means the bonus of entertainment watching the bartender or sushi chefs do their thing).  If you've got a larger party though and this doesn't work for you, just head outside to at one of their larger tables where you can people watch.
    Later at night it gets packed with gyrating bodies, but if you've got some time to kill and want to head out a bit earlier, I'd highly recommend their happy hour which goes from 6-8. Truly, it is nothing short of fantastic!  Each day the specials change so you won't know till you get there, but you can choose one of their XL sliders or a sushi roll for $5, any beer for $5, and their featured specialty Stoli drink for $7.
   The first time I went the drink being offered was a passionfruit martini, an ethereal combination of sweet and tart, in which you could not taste even the slightest hint of alcohol.  Unfortunately, this meant it went down way too easily and far too quickly, we were slightly buzzed and ordering a second round before we even knew what happened.  The next time it was a cherry blend, made with puree from real cherries.  If you're not there during happy hour, I'd recommend trying one of their liquid nitrogen cocktails.  They might not come cheap but they are expertly made and go down quite smooth!
   When feeling peckish I'd recommend starting off small.  You'll be surprised by how filling the tapas-style plates can be.  Gone are the days of basic bar burgers and fries as Chef  Todd Erickson has really gone above and beyond to create sophisticated and creative twists on each item to make it a true culinary experience.  While some items are better for sharing (like the tater tots), other items such as the sliders are better to get your own.  During one happy hour I was lucky enough to have the choice of a quail slider, which was juicy and full of flavor, with pillowy buns.  Off the main menu, the lamburger (which is served with lavender-coriander honey, apple-fennel slaw & ouzo mustard) too is succulent and tangy.

Amongst the skewers, I found the Mahi mahi skewer to be one of the best.  There is a nice char to the outside, while the fresh meat remains incredibly tender.  Plus the addition of lots of colorful veggies helps keep things light.

Another fabulous and filling option is their Rock Shrimp, which are covered in a slightly sweet coconut panko and are served with a tangy wasabi-sour peach marmalade for dipping.  I've never had fried shrimp before that were so non-greasy and that managed to maintain so much moisture inside!  Even with the breading, the shrimp were incredibly succulent and the sauce added a great kick.

If you've ever been served tater tots once upon a time in grade school, then you'll appreciate the nostalgia factor in this hedonistic version for grown-ups.   A massive pile of tots, they are topped off with maytag bleu, chives and ribbons of balsamic ketchup.  They are very good and definitely filling, although I do think the bleu cheese might have been a bit of a sharp choice for my liking, overpowering the other flavors a bit much.  Don't get me wrong, we still demolished these pretty quickly!

 The sushi is another superb way to go, as beautiful in presentation as it is in taste  Their version of the California Roll, the Santa Monica, is prepared with lump crab, yuzu tobiko, hass avocado, and cucumber.  The execution is almost so exquisite you don't want to dig in, but you'd be remiss to miss out on the chance to enjoy such fresh and well-prepared sushi.  It may be a tad pricier, but if you'd like to venture into more unique territoty, the Maki Peru fuses Asian and Peruvian cuisine with tempura shrimp, red bell, hass avocado, and tai ceviche.

Santa Monica roll

Maki Peru

If you've still got room for dessert the liquid nitrogen ice cream is often raved about for a reason.  The flavors are constantly changing, so you never know quite what to expect, be it a chocolate truffle or a maple with candied bacon.  Whichever options they have, the treat is incredibly rich and the thick.  The creamy custard coats your tongue, allowing you to really savor each spoonful.  The portions are pretty generous, so the small is definitely enough for 2, while the larger size would be enough for 3-5 (depending on how greedy everyone is).

Liquid Nitrogen Maple Ice Cream with Candied Bacon

    Sure to please foodies and party revelers alike, Haven is the quintessential South Beach atmosphere serving up decadent and inventive creations that will satisfy both tourists and locals.  I've only barely scratched the surface on everything they offer and I'm constantly surprised with each new option I find.

    Haven
    1237 Lincoln Road  Miami Beach, FL 33139
    (305) 987-8885

If it ain't broke, don't fix it: Cocktails at the Broken Shaker

       You've had a long day and you just want to unwind in a relaxing venue with a truly well made drink.  The Broken Shaker is Miami answer for those bedraggled with the ennui of hitting up the usual venues with the same standard list of cocktails.  As the first pop-up cocktail lounge in Miami, I wasn't quite sure what to expect.  Making my way to the Indian Creek hotel, I was pleased to discover it was a short walk from the public parking lot nearby (which is free after 6pm) that I usually leave my car at when hitting up Indomania (my favorite Indonesian restaurant).  Whatever concerns I'd had about a haphazard and quickly thrown together atmosphere, were immediately dispelled by the charming and welcoming space.  The inside bar is a bit like being a kid in a candy store.  Rows of various liquors, jars filled with colorful fruits and bitters, you almost can imagine stepping back in time to a  funky saloon.
       The courtyard outside is so beautiful, it's almost too perfect.  A serene little fountain in the center serves as the focal point, with colorful leaves and flower petals floating lazily around the calm water.  Around this, I envision the consummate scene for the Mad Hatter's Tea Party; strands of white lights twinkle like fireflies, a winding flower statue curves gracefully alongside the basin of water, and the lush greenery creates an oasis from the city.  It's really an idyllic place to just relax whilst slowly sipping your handcrafted creation.

   Although the do have a list of their own creations, their vast knowledge of liquor means you can also get pretty much whatever you'd like.  For my friend, this meant ordering a Blood and Sand.  Previously, he had become completely enamored with the concoction, and was delighted to discover they were more than happy to whip one up for him (and knock it out of the park).  A classic cocktail inspired by the 1920's film starring Rudolph Valentino, Blood and Sand is a mix of scotch whisky, rosso vermouth, cherry brandy and orange juice.  Once prepared with ice, the liquid is strained into a chilled glass.  
      One sip and I could immediately tell what had made it so appealing to him.  Fairly mild on the alcohol front, it went down silky smooth.  There was a hint of smokiness to it, and while it wasn't overly cloying, there was a decent amount of sweetness present almost like a caramel.  Throughout the evening, this was his drink of choice, and probably would have been mine if curiosity hadn't gotten the better of me.  I did come back on another occasion though to procure my own!

   One of the best bars I've ever been to was in New Orleans, a mixology bar where they would create a drink based on a mix-in or your personal preferences for sweet, hot, and/or sour.  I highly regret forgetting the name, but I will definitely never forget the experience.  I was hopeful that the Broken Shaker could live up to that place for me, and since we had arrived fairly early in the evening, I took the opportunity to have them mix me up something unique with the "bartender's choice." 
      I selected basil and absinthe, a fusion of ingredients I love in a cocktail, that have the potential to be downright horrible when combined.  Thankfully, the bartenders knew their stuff and managed to concoct a blissful amalgamation with some kind of lemon buffer to cut down on the strong licorice flavor of the absinthe.  The aroma was no stronger than that of a well-prepared lemonade.  The taste was fairly mild, although the basil was lost among the other partners, with a lingering notes of anise from the Absinthe.

    Next up I requested a cucumber drink with whatever liquor they deemed to work.  My creation arrived in a tall glass filled with a resplendent opaque, lime-green liquid, which was topped with a thin layer of foam. Upon tasting I noted an immediate "pucker-factor," surprising since most drinks with cucumber tend to be a bit sweet.  The sour taste worked, but wasn't one of my favorite choices in a drink as the caustic nature overwhelmed any other flavors.  My own fault though for not being decisive with my preference in alcohol.

    Finally, I decided to stick with one of their menu selections for the week, the chai rum sazerac (aged rum, sugar and chai bitters).  A sazerac is the quintessential New Orleans cocktail, with origins dating back to pre-Civil War.  According to legend, it was originally served egg cup known as a coquetier in French, and it was the American pronunciation of this that actually gave rise to the term "cocktail."  Whilst we have evidence that indicates this is little more than folklore, it still makes for a nice story and perhaps leads to the mistaken idea that this is the first American cocktail.
      Visually, the chai rum sazerac looked like a translucent version on the sunset.  Cinnamon, cardamom, and a hint of almond, I appreciated the complexity as my tongue struggled to make out different flavor components.  However, after the the acidity in the previous drink, the contrast was a bit much, making it taste incredibly saccharine.  I'm still not sure whether this was an artifact of juxtaposition, or the true flavor.  Luckily though, this was my last cocktail of the evening, making it a perfect dessert.

Another high point from the Shaker for me have been their shots.  On my last visit they whipped our group up a round, and while I still have no clue what was in it, they were incredible!  Taste-wise, it was a combination of guava and cheese pastry, gingerbread and a hint of grapefruit.  I struggled with the desire to sip it rather than just throw it back. 
     In addition to the libations, I've tried a couple of the "nibblings."  The artisanal empanadas come three to an order, with your choice of sweet plantains and pork, curry samosas, or pear and brie.  On my first visit, we ended up getting two orders of all three, our favorite of which was undoubtedly the curry samosas (they just had so much phenomenal flavor).  As for the others, in the first batch we couldn't taste the plantain at all over the pork, however, it was more present in the second round.  Also, the brie oozed out of the pear and brie like someone had tipped over a jar of honey.  Yum!

     My companion additionally ordered us the homemade dips which also came with a choice of three (creamy tahini with hummus; spicy avocado; Indian curry) and was served with crunchy plantain chips and doughy pita triangles. We went with two of the hummus and the spicy avocado.  A superb way to soak up some of the alcohol!

     If that wasn't enough to entice you, they've even got plenty of entertainment too!  There is a foosball table and ping-pong area set up in the back, as well as a slew of classic board games.  We had a wonderful time playing Jenga (don't worry, we took great efforts to ensure we did not knock the tower into our lovely drinks) while relaxing with the cool music.  The Broken Shaker is a fabulous discovery for you to kick back and sip some truly unique cocktails.  Homemade bitters, shaped ice prepared with your drink of choice in mind, a rotating menu...better come while you can to try as much as possible from this innovative group!

The Broken Shaker at the Indian Creek Hotel
2727 Indian Creek Dr
Miami Beach, FL 33140
You can also follow them on twitter @TheBrokenShaker