Sunday Brunch at Sustain

     Miami is seriously beginning to step up its brunch game with some of my favorite restaurants all around town tossing their hat into the the ring.  Each Sunday had become a game of eeny, meeny, miny, mo, as I struggle to decide between Tudor House and Michael's Genuine, and more recent choices like the Federal, the Local, Eating House and Sustain.  Each has their own merits, and I won't try to persuade you any one is really better than another.  However, this post is about Sustain, an eco-friendly restaurant that already managed to capture my heart with their unique approach to quality food and drink made using fresh local ingredients.
    Come Sundays, their lovely restaurant transforms from relaxed and sophisticated to energetic and fun, with a DJ playing an assortment of tunes in the corner.  As with the regular menu, the brunch menu is ever changing, so some items may not be permanent fixtures.  The morning we came in we decided to chose an assortment of sweet and savory items, along with El Fugitivo, a cocktail combining Milagro Silver tequila, Cynar, lime, agave and Angostura.

    El Fugitivo arrived, a bit smaller than I expected considering the $12 price tag.  Depending on your perspective, the glass was either half empty or half full.  Redolent of citrus, it tasted pretty much like you'd expect with tequila, lime, and bitters, both acidic and very smooth.  It was potent though, which meant that it was not a cocktail for downing quickly, rather something to savor and let linger on the palate.

     Our waitress kindly split our order up so our table wouldn't become inundated with plates.  So first up was the bread basket and the duck poutine.  Now when my friend enthusiastically recommended the bread basket, I will admit a huge amount of skepticism.  I mean I know I'm the oddball that isn't very into bread, but in my opinion, why would anyone go to a nice restaurant to pay for a heaping portion of the stuff most places give you for free anyways.  I assumed it would be generic white bread that was well made, but certainly nothing so interesting as to waste valuable stomach space on.  Then we got to Sustain and I actually read what they were offering: Zucchini bread, corn muffin, carrot cake, berry compote and lavender-honey butter.  Seriously I could not have been more excited for a bread basket, and when it arrived I was not disappointed.  The butter was floral with a tinge of sweetness, and the berry compote was fruity and dulcet.  Mixing and matching each for the three "breads" was pure bliss.  Each option was exceptional, both moist and flavorful.  I'd also like to note that they follow my cardinal corn muffin rule, of including actual corn in the muffin for extra bursts of texture and more corn flavor.  They earn serious bonus points for that in my book!

     Next up was the duck poutine.  I wasn't quite sure what  a "poutine" actually was, but thanks to my dining partner I can now share that it's a dish indigenous to Canada comprised of fries, cheese, and a brown gravy.  On previous occasions, I had enjoyed Sustain's bone marrow fries, and I found the poutine was simply a hedonistic step up from the original.  Perfect strips of potato made soft from a bath in rich bone marrow gravy, they came with generous amounts of duck meat and feta.  We also chose to make it more of a breakfast friendly dish with the addition of a 63 degree egg.  An umami explosion, it was both flavorful and filling, a decadent take on poutine.

      Moving onwards we finally breached sweet territory with the Foie Gras and Pancakes.  Soft little discs of buckwheat pancakes came drenched in maple syrup, which was then topped with crisp slices of bacon and a huge piece of creamy foie, the flan of the savory world.  Thankfully the dish was not nearly as cloying as I had imagined, surprisingly well balanced, and very enjoyable.

     For the final selection, we went with a scotch egg, a dish considered traditional English fare.  Typically, this dish consists of a hardboiled egg that is wrapped in sausage meat, coated in breadcrumbs and then is deep fried.  While the London department store Fortnum and Mason claims credit for inventing them for wealthy coach travellers back in 1738, other reports claim that the scotch egg is actually a derivative of an Indian dish, Margisi Kofta.  Whichever you believe, at Sustain you get the usual version amped up with a zesty jalapeno-cheddar sauce and pickled vegetable salad.  With the combination of flavors and textures, it is a superb rendition of a classic English treat.

     Each item was absolutely delicious and I ended up being full for the remainder of the day.  What a tasty way to start my Sunday!  I may need to work out for an entire week afterward, but it was totally worth it.  Check out brunch at Sustain for yourself!   You can follow them on twitter @SustainMIA for their latest specials, or just come on in:


3252 Northeast 1st Avenue, Suite #107  Miami, FL 33137

An Orlando outing, Part 2: Nile Ethiopian Cuisine

I recently posted about the Ravenous Pig, a fantastic gastropub in Orlando.  During the same trip, I found another gem that I'd like to share for locals and those visiting. 
     Ethiopian food is quite unlike anything else that I'm accustomed too.  Back when I was in undergrad, I vaguely remember sampling some cuisine from a local restaurant that has since gone out of business.  My only recollection of the experience was that it seemed exotic and it was spicy.  Fast forward to the present and a soujourn in Orlando.  Presented with the opportunity to give a full Ethiopian meal a shot, I was powerless to resist.
     I won't claim to be an expert on the subject, and I have little grounds for comparison, but Nile Ethiopian Cuisine is absolutely exceptional.  The restaurant itself is located in a strip mall just off the tourist-trap laden International Drive.  Coming inside you'll find a warm and vibrant environment, with several more private rooms off to the left.  If you choose one of these, they're traditionally furnished with divans and wicker, hourglass-shaped tables.  In Ethiopian cuisine "injera" is a staple, kind of like a cross between a chewy crepe and a bubbling pancake disc before it's flipped.  Made from "teff," a fine grain unique to Ethiopia, they provide a nice vessel to enjoy an assortment of meats and fillings, and they allow for sharing.  The friendly waitress helpfully explained the traditional way of eating, which is really just as straightforward as tearing some injera off with your hands, and using it to scoop up the selected dish.  If you know what you want you can choose an individual plate, but if you're not alone I'd suggest opting for one of their combination platters for maximal enjoyment.  As an added bonus they've even got a full vegetarian option, so your meat eating friends need not be left out.
    We began with the Azifa, an appetizer consisting of lentils, onion, green pepper, and lemon juice, mixed with Ethiopian mustard.  Bold and tangy, with a touch of pungent acidity from the lemons, it was spectacularly delicious.

     For the entree we decided to get the Mucow special which was a combination platter of Beef Key Wat, Alicha, Split Peas (Kik), Collard Greens (Gomen), Cubed Beef (Tibs), and a simple greens and tomato salad.  In addition, the platter came with two glasses of honey wine (Tej), an intoxicating drink that kind of reminded me of orange juice, champagne, and elderflower.  Served in round-bottomed beakers that looked like they were stolen from a chemistry lab, by itself the Tej erred on cloying, but it provided the perfect refreshment along with the savory edibles. 

     Of the three kinds of meat, all were tender, flavorful, and well balanced.  They don't describe exactly what spices they use, nor what is in the special sauces, so I can only offer vague speculation.  One definitely stood out as the spicier choice (I'm guessing it was the red pepper sauce of the Beef Key Wat), which had some kick, yet was not unbearable.  Among the other two, the beef with green peppers and onions (I'm thinking this was the Tibs) reminded me of the filling you would find in Mexican fajitas.  Finally, my favorite of the three was what I assume (by process of elimination) was the Alicha, which tasted like some kind of creamy, slightly sweet, coconutty/buttery beef, rendered even more succulent by their special sauce.
      The collard greens were exactly like the kind you could find at any quality Southern-style restaurant, slightly bitter and moist.  The Kik, which originally didn't appeal to me very much, turned out to be my absolute, I can't-get-enough, hands down top choice.  A smooth, mild pile of yellow looking glop, it was divine!  I'm not quite sure how it was prepared, but I tasted hints of turmeric, ginger and garlic.  We managed to finish our first batch of injera pretty quickly, and wonderfully, our attentive waitress brought us more without any prompting!

   Before leaving we got some coffee, which was lovingly prepared to order and served tableside.  I didn't try any but my dining partner assured me it was strong and aromatic.
      The unique gamut of flavors and spices was unlike anything else I've had.  While I'm sure you can request hotter choices, I really appreciated that nothing we got was intolerable.  I was surprised by how many families we saw dining around us...who says that kids are picky?  I guess given the opportunity to forgo silverware and use their hands, children will jump in.  Accordingly, I'd highly recommend making this a stop for any occasion.  Fun for all ages and spectacularly delectable to boot!  Wash your hands and dig in (literally)!

 Nile Ethiopian Cuisine
7040 International Drive  Orlando, FL 32819
(407) 354-0026
www.nile07.com

An Orlando outing at the Ravenous Pig

      Typically I try to stick to reviewing restaurants in the South Florida area that are easily visitable, but I figured that perhaps this should be extended to include Central Florida, a locale that is just a quick trip away.  After choosing to venture to Orlando for a weekend getaway, I immediately decided that this would finally be the visit in which I make my way to the Ravenous Pig.  I had heard such great things about the gastropub, I must admit some trepidation on my part that it might not live up to the hype.
      Was immediately surprised by the decor, which was not at all what I had expected.  Far more upscale restaurant than dingy pub, there was a tin ceiling, hanging exposed bulbs, brick walls, and almond bisque linens topped with brown paper.  It was definitely streamlined and sophisticated, yet still felt comfortable.  Radiohead played in the background, an unexpected but pleasant choice (although this is open to personal interpretation).

     I was shocked (and a bit disappointed to note) that the beer menu was not quite as extensive as I had hoped.  While the options that they had were decent, I just wish there had been more of them.  Luckily the cocktail menu bore some pretty inventive options. Since the drinks aren't exactly cheap ($12 apiece), be warned that your bill can tally up fairly quickly.  Especially when they mange to concoct some that are so well-blended you might down it in no time without even realizing!
     The Steamroller (a combination of Anchor Junipero gin, Elderflower liqueur, Cherry Heering, house sour, and beer) is a prime example of this.  Utterly delicious, it was light and refreshing, kind of a combination of Sprite and Southern-style iced tea, with a subtle taste of beer.  Dangerously addictive!

     Next up was the Ravenous Pig Old Fashioned (made with Bacon-infused Buffalo Trace bourbon, vanilla maple syrup, and bitters), which was absolutely a cocktail that is more for sipping.  This is the ultimate manly drink.   While it came off strong on front, the taste gave way to a smooth honey flavor, and finally concluded with a smoky finish.  Decorated with an addictive little sliver of crisp candied bacon, when this hunk of meat was infused with the alcohol, it was even more sensational.   Kindly our waiter brought over additional pieces upon request as one tiny rectangle garnish was just not enough.  As the ice began to melt, the drink's profile began to change.  It opened up, allowing for more coconut and vanilla, with a stronger citrus aroma.

    Our final selection for the evening the aptly named "Gin & Jam," which combined Rogue Pink Spruce Gin,  housemade rhubarb jam, local honey syrup, and house sour.  While it might have looked like a cocktail that Barbie would enjoy, I assure you the taste was far more complex than your average child's play.  Sweetness from the jam and honey, with a touch of piquancy, it was incredibly well balanced.

     While imbibing on the cocktails, we did also manage to make our way to the actual food menu.  In addition to the typical starters, salads, and entrees, there was a section dedicated to "pub fare."  Our first choice was a typical house-made soft pretzel, which was served with whole grain mustard and taleggio-porter fondue.  I'd definitely recommend sharing this dish, as consuming an entire plate alone might be too filling to allow for other selections.  The pretzel was a lovely golden color, with a hard exterior, and lush, bready filling.  It made the perfect shuttle for some of the bold mustard, which had an interesting component of cinnamon flavor hidden within the pungent and crunchy little seeds.  It's rather difficult to ruin melted cheese, and luckily they didn't try.  The taleggio cheese cup coated the pretzel (and my tongue) with a luscious, velvety sauce that never appeared to coagulate,  even though there was no continuous heat source present.  While such an addition would seem purely savory, I found hints of sweetness towards the bottom of the cup.  Of the two dipping options, I would be hardpressed to pick a favorite, as I found it necessary to keep switching back and forth to prevent "tastebud fatigue."

     Next, we opted for the charred octopus, which was served with smoked potato salad, green olive tapenade, and squid ink vinaigrette.  The presentation was lovely, with lots of color.  The octopus arrived perfectly seared, laden with a charred grill taste.  As quality seafood should be, it was absent of any overwhelming "fishy" flavor, nor was it the least bit chewy.  Additionally, the tentacles gave the dish a nice pop.  The squid ink stripe added some saltiness, while the zesty potato pepper slaw brought some punch.

     When it was time for the entrees,  I selected the halibut, which was accompanied by green farro risotto, tasso ham, local patty pan squash, spring onions and black garlic pearls.  The halibut had been sous vide with olive oil, which gave it a glossy coat.  Please note that an oily appearance did not indicate that the fish was undercooked.  Antithetically, the method chosen gave the delicate fish a voluptuously tender quality that made it melt like butter.  The farro added a nice contrast for the silkiness of the fish, exploding with lots of fresh veggie flavor.

     The other entree selected was the Hudson Valley Duck.  This was a stunning ode to duck as it were, with magnificently seared portions of succulent meat, and a juicy, smoked duck sausage.  There was also braised red cabbage, which tasted a bit like cranberry sauce, so saccharine and tart.  Furthermore, the mustard-glazed fennel and rhubarb relish provided additionally distinctive textures and flavors.  Cumulatively, it managed to hit all five tastes, a substantial symphony of sweet, salty, sour, bitter, and umami.

      After so many satisfying and filling courses, it was hard to imagine eating another bite...at least that is what I thought until I actually saw the dessert menu.  The "Crisp" sounded far too tempting to resist, with a base of stewed strawberries and rhubarb, a crunchy almond top and "toffee" ice cream.  Digging to the bottom to get all the components together, you were hit immediately with a bit of tartness, which then gave way to more dulcet notes.  The dense crisp with almond and brown sugar was crunchy, tasting like a breakfast porridge hodgepodge of oats, buttery cornflakes, and almond bits.  The cool ice cream was every bit the necessary yin to the yang of the hot crumble, however, I can't say I really got any of the described toffee flavor.  In my opinion, it was more like it was a smooth buttermilk.  Not that this in any way stopped me, as I literally had to restrain myself from licking the ramekin clean.  I cannot emphasize enough how much I seriously enjoyed this magical dessert!

 As I sat in a food-coma induced stupor, the genial waiter brought over one last surprise with the bill, some nibbles of moist and tangy blackberry citrus cake.  Yum!
       The Ravenous Pig really is the embodiment of what a gastropub should aspire to be.  A comfortable atmosphere you can't help but to relax in, with quality drinks, and stellar food.  Like so many of the best restaurants, they use local, seasonal ingredients, and the menu is ever changing.  The presentation was flawless and the service was attentive and cordial without being obsequious.  I have no doubt that this was only the first of many visits to come!  If you're in Orlando, or happen to be passing through Winter Park, I highly recommend stopping by.

The Ravenous Pig
1234 Orange Avenue
Winter Park, FL 32789
(407) 628-2333
www.theravenouspig.com/

You can also follow the Ravenous Pig on twitter @RavPig for their latest specials and events!

Kapow! Packs a Punch

  Growing up, I spent quite a bit of time at Mizner Park.  I've see the cyclical changes of its growth and constant struggle to reinvent itself.  Filled with trendy boutiques and entertainment options, the luxurious destination is a great place to spend some time strolling along the shops, or to engage in a little culture at the with their scheduled concert series.  What I missed completely was the transition to nightlife scene.  Unbeknowst to me, I returned to find the thriving area jam packed with trendy revelers and some cool new bars and restaurants.

   Kapow! Noodle Bar is a welcome addition, bringing upscale Asian with a farm to table concept and some unique hand crafted cocktails.  The inside is both edgy and fun, a colorful mural decorating the main wall along with dainty butterflies to tie in the natural element.  There is also plenty of seating available outside.

    Overwhelmed by the sheer volume of delectable sounding options, couldn't resist the special which was described by our waiter as "Sake infused watermelon caviar."  What we actually received was sushi-like in appearance, crisp cylinders of watermelon wrapped in a salty seaweed with balsamic caviar and sake pearls, alongside a stripe of robust wasabi mint cream (which gave the dish a nice bit of kick).  The waiter later confessed he wasn't quite sure what it was other than some "watermelon/sake caviar," which means I'm guessing as to what was actually in it and I apologize if the description isn't quite accurate.  Either way, it was as stunning in presentation as it was in flavor.

    Next up was "Beef Yukke" which delivered a generous mountain of rich Korean style beef tartare sprinkled with a smattering of greens.  Although it claimed the toasted bread was truffled brioche crisps, I can't honestly say I really thought it bore any resemblance to the thick and eggy bread I typically associate with brioche, nor was the truffle a dominate aroma or flavor.  In spite of what appeared little more than toasted white bread, making a sandwich with the slivers of julienned Asian pear, wasabi sour cream, and tender meat was an experience to be had.  The flavors worked synergistically to create a harmonious balance of sweet, slightly pungent, crunchy, meaty, and smooth all in one.  I could have eaten 2 plates of this by myself!

   My first foray into beef tongue (lately I'm venturing further and further into uncharted, for me, parts) started with a bit of trepidation.  However, once I tasted the grilled tongue I found it to be fairly similar to most other cuts of beef, with the notable exception that it was surprisingly tender.  Served with a teensy molehill of pickled daikon with sriacha dripping over the edges (momiji croshi) and a Japanese mustard/sesame soy dipping sauce, you could choose to give the garlicky meat some serious heat.  Since I tend to be a bit spicy intolerant I chose to ignore the hotter elements of the dish and yet still found it very enjoyable.  Meanwhile, my dining partner was able to revel in the elation of having as much fire as his mouth could handle.
    For the main course we chose the pan seared diver scallops.  Fluffy white rice was topped with caramelized scallops, bok choy and straw mushrooms, and then all the components were submerged in a velvety green curry sauce.  The scallops themselves were very fresh and  perfectly seared, with an ethereal silky smooth interior.  The rice was delightfully al dente and sopped up the spiciness of curry well.  The only complaint was that there was some bitterness from the bok choy that was a touch jarring.  I don't mind the veggie, but perhaps blanching or cooking a bit longer could have prevented this.  A very pleasant dish overall though.

     While the dessert menu only offered two selections, the carrot cake was an interesting reinvention of the classic.  Delicate and moist it was topped with candied carrot slivers and a heaping side portion of ginger cream cheese frosting.  Overall the dessert was far less cloying than most, almost erring on the side of not enough sweetness.

   With vibrant flavors and fresh, high-quality ingredients Kapow! elevates typical Asian concepts to new heights.

 Kapow! Noodle Bar
 431 Plaza Real  Boca Raton, FL 33433
 (561) 347-7322
 http://KapowNoodleBar.com